Olivier Rousteing, Balmain, and the Fierce Metallic / Fall 2013

Ever since the young, brilliant, and mysterious Olivier Rousteing took over the House of Balmain in 2011; the entire aesthetic of Balmain had re-imagined itself in super-luxury opulence; a look more synonymous with that of it's original creator of which Balmain is named.

This Season, at Paris Fashion Week, Rousteing's Fall 2013 Collection for Balmain was no exception to the rule. A sparkling, highly-detailed, exaggerated, and extravagant showcase grounded by heavy forms, rich metallics, and stark shapes; Rousteing's aesthetic boasts a confidence and power equaled only be the era it clearly reflects; the affluent 80's. "More Balmain than Balmain has ever been before..." is a totally accurate sentiment.

We are smitten and inspired by the atmosphere and presence of these incredible clothes; evoking an ideal that moves beyond just the clothing itself. It's identity, it's magnificence, it's gauche, it's gaudy, it's too much, it's over-powered, and it's fabulous. From the glistening satin of the material, to the tightly cinched, belted waists, to the rigidly formed shoulders and geometric coat forms - it's, once again, architectural, iconic, dramatic, and brilliant in almost every visual sense. There is only one type of woman who could wear clothing this powerful, and that, I assure you, is a rare woman of an unparalleled, enigmatic beauty. A showstopping presentation! Bravo, Olivier!

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Haider Ackermann Rules Paris / Winter 2013

There are few words powerful enough to properly describe the aesthetic, power, and presence of a designer like Haider Ackermann. Often admired for his talent of creating harmony through contrasting elements of medium, inspiration, era, and even social class; Ackermann has even been compared to the late and legendary Yves Saint Laurent himself, who did much the same during his time. He is regarded as one of the most notable and interesting designers to ever emerge out of France; debuting his first Collection to significant praise in 2001, having even been approached by powerhouse mavens the likes of Karl Lagerfeld (Chanel), Margiela, and Dior.

This year at Paris Fashion Week, Haider Ackermann presented his brilliant Winter 2013 Collection following the same vein of power and presence in the industry. A beautiful, slick palette of Winter greys, charcoal blacks, shiny leathers, and gunmetal elements dominated the aesthetic. It was architectural, stark, and brilliantly composed through variations of textural layering, contrasting prints, and large, billowing, and flowing forms.

As usual, I absolutely adore the wrap forms. The hottest trend this Season is in full swing and I couldn't be happier! The draping knitwear is so tundra meets glam, and so super chic in a really lax way. It takes street wear into high fashion territory and is a celebration of the coolest silhouette of the year - over-sized, over-shaped torsos with those fantastic long and lean legs. A retro nod to an 80's-era fabulous while maintaining the urban, modern, youthful street style that is so trendy into today's evolving Runway scene. Androgynous, baggy, masculine-inspired suit pants ground some of Ackermann's strongest forms; accented by easily the most powerfully cut coats this season. A masterfully composed presentation!

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Céline, Automne/Hiver 2013 #SuperLux

Phoebe Philo is a visionary. In a celebration of the truest simplicity of form, line, and colour; Céline's Winter 2013 Collection is a pristine example of the anti-cluttered, anti-printed, and anti-textured timeless beauty that is the ultimate form of super-luxury. And we couldn't be more smitten!

There is something so compelling about this Collection. The forms are so obtuse and interesting, but the lines are so pure and clean, in true Céline form. It is totally Seasonally incredible yet it discards so many of some of this Season's most interesting trends - that is; overlaid textures, geometric, stark patterns, and prints. The knitwear and clean palette take the clothing to the most prominent level, without the need of any further visual interest; it's all in the shape, the line, and the way it sits. Effortlessly chic, opulence in pure minimalism. Only the best from Céline. 

Photos borrowed from The Front Row View

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Beyond The LIM IT / 3.1 Fall 2013 #Womenswear

This post is long-overdue blogosphere! The incomparable Phillip Lim give us perhaps my favourite Fall Collection this year - littered with blocked and bright leathers, fantastic trenches, glossy pants, and urban knitwear. A Collection that boasts an aesthetic that is so Lim - with the right amount of streamlined chic and the right amount of youthful street style.

I am beyond obsessed with the coats in this Collection. Phillip Lim for Fall is always so architecturally pristine - with an 80's flare for the dramatic; the turquoise and beige overcoats exude a New York flair that is super-chic. Beyond that it has to be the pants and the boot wear - bagged leather, textured and cut with a bold shape. The lines, overlapped textures, and layered pieces are visually brilliant and an urban nod to a little but of 90's as well, if you can see it! The layering of line and colour remind me of a diverse cityscape; and it's held together by a fantastic, stark, and seasonally-sound palette of slate greys, whites, camels, and glossy blacks. A visual symphony of proportion, line, texture, and colour - I wish I could wear it all, especially that turquoise-on-a-teal-edge overcoat. Brilliant, brilliant, brilliant.

I know I post a lot about Phillip Lim, but represent his work is almost a must for me. He is, as I've said before, one of the most impeccable and talented modern designers in the world right now, despite his young age and relatively short career thus far. His taste is consistently and elegantly on-point season after season; and the construction of his pieces, beyond just the tailoring alone, is always a masterful composition of form, colour, and texture. It's as if he is creating incredible buildings that you can both appreciate from a distance and right up-close, in terms of grandeur and presence as well as the finest detailing. I could own every piece in this entire Collection. Bravo!

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Saint Laurent Paris / Winter 2013 #Menswear

Hello Blogosphere! DylanInTheCity is in the heartbeat of it all - right here in Manhattan, New York this week! Our flight was smooth and quick from the epicenter of Toronto, and we couldn't be more excited for our stay in Gotham. Exploring Manhattan has been a treat so far, and there are hundreds of spots I have yet to discover. Keep it locked right here for Fashion events I may find myself in (as well as Heather Lawton's highly anticipated Fall/Winter 2013 showcase) and keep it locked to my sister-site, DylanInTheWorld, for some of my personal experiences within this fantastic, enigmatic, and majestic city.

Now! Before I become starstruck by my own realization that I'm sitting in a fabulous little suite in Manhattan; let's talk Fashion! The savior himself, Hedi Slimane, recently presented Saint Laurent Paris' fantastic and daring Fall/Winter 2013 Collection at Paris Fashion Week. The minute I laid my eyes on this Collection  I absolutely lost it - I'm obsessed and oh so thankful! Slimane really is the new re-interpretation of YSL and the core of his dream; newness. Slimane is presenting a freshness for men much like Yves himself did for women, in a sense. Androgyny, over-sized shapes, femininity and obtusely carved forms dominate Slimane's showcase for Saint Laurent Paris. Billowing scarves, ripped denim of a 90's era boy, and Gotham-esque capes solidify an aesthetic that is not only urban and daring, but uniquely feminine. Androgyny with a sting of strength and boldness; Slimane's aesthetic carries serious power; it's a very strong identity and extremely characteristic - I couldn't help but fall totally in love with it. I've spoken about how I feel about androgyny in Fashion before, and how important I think it is. It's wonderful to see Slimane, the creative leader behind one of the most iconic High Fashion Houses in the World, take that idea, that ideaology, and push it.

A brilliant presentation. I want everything. Thank you for redefining YSL into something neoteric yet again Mr. Slimane!

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