Haider Ackermann Rules Paris / Winter 2013

There are few words powerful enough to properly describe the aesthetic, power, and presence of a designer like Haider Ackermann. Often admired for his talent of creating harmony through contrasting elements of medium, inspiration, era, and even social class; Ackermann has even been compared to the late and legendary Yves Saint Laurent himself, who did much the same during his time. He is regarded as one of the most notable and interesting designers to ever emerge out of France; debuting his first Collection to significant praise in 2001, having even been approached by powerhouse mavens the likes of Karl Lagerfeld (Chanel), Margiela, and Dior.

This year at Paris Fashion Week, Haider Ackermann presented his brilliant Winter 2013 Collection following the same vein of power and presence in the industry. A beautiful, slick palette of Winter greys, charcoal blacks, shiny leathers, and gunmetal elements dominated the aesthetic. It was architectural, stark, and brilliantly composed through variations of textural layering, contrasting prints, and large, billowing, and flowing forms.

As usual, I absolutely adore the wrap forms. The hottest trend this Season is in full swing and I couldn't be happier! The draping knitwear is so tundra meets glam, and so super chic in a really lax way. It takes street wear into high fashion territory and is a celebration of the coolest silhouette of the year - over-sized, over-shaped torsos with those fantastic long and lean legs. A retro nod to an 80's-era fabulous while maintaining the urban, modern, youthful street style that is so trendy into today's evolving Runway scene. Androgynous, baggy, masculine-inspired suit pants ground some of Ackermann's strongest forms; accented by easily the most powerfully cut coats this season. A masterfully composed presentation!

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Saint Laurent Paris / Winter 2013 #Menswear

Hello Blogosphere! DylanInTheCity is in the heartbeat of it all - right here in Manhattan, New York this week! Our flight was smooth and quick from the epicenter of Toronto, and we couldn't be more excited for our stay in Gotham. Exploring Manhattan has been a treat so far, and there are hundreds of spots I have yet to discover. Keep it locked right here for Fashion events I may find myself in (as well as Heather Lawton's highly anticipated Fall/Winter 2013 showcase) and keep it locked to my sister-site, DylanInTheWorld, for some of my personal experiences within this fantastic, enigmatic, and majestic city.

Now! Before I become starstruck by my own realization that I'm sitting in a fabulous little suite in Manhattan; let's talk Fashion! The savior himself, Hedi Slimane, recently presented Saint Laurent Paris' fantastic and daring Fall/Winter 2013 Collection at Paris Fashion Week. The minute I laid my eyes on this Collection  I absolutely lost it - I'm obsessed and oh so thankful! Slimane really is the new re-interpretation of YSL and the core of his dream; newness. Slimane is presenting a freshness for men much like Yves himself did for women, in a sense. Androgyny, over-sized shapes, femininity and obtusely carved forms dominate Slimane's showcase for Saint Laurent Paris. Billowing scarves, ripped denim of a 90's era boy, and Gotham-esque capes solidify an aesthetic that is not only urban and daring, but uniquely feminine. Androgyny with a sting of strength and boldness; Slimane's aesthetic carries serious power; it's a very strong identity and extremely characteristic - I couldn't help but fall totally in love with it. I've spoken about how I feel about androgyny in Fashion before, and how important I think it is. It's wonderful to see Slimane, the creative leader behind one of the most iconic High Fashion Houses in the World, take that idea, that ideaology, and push it.

A brilliant presentation. I want everything. Thank you for redefining YSL into something neoteric yet again Mr. Slimane!

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SAINT LAURENT / Spring 2013

Saint Laurent, the new born baby of Hedi Slimane; following the aftermath of the controversial re-branding, and re-naming of Yves Saint Laurent's great empire, has just released it's Spring 2013 Collection at Paris Fashion Week. Generally met with mixed and anti-climactic reviews; the Collection boasts strong silhouettes, a brooding and sophisticated palette, and classically sharp tailoring in the form of belted coats, blazers, and skin-tight trousers.

Although I can understand the attitude of reviewers considering this was Slimane's highly-anticipated debut - one can't knock his quality and approach. The clothing is immaculate. The palette is seasonal and on-point; and the flowing dresses, over-sized hats, and general aesthetic of an almost Old World meets New World, cowgirl sophisticate is chic, refined, becoming, and extremely bold. I especially love the huge capes and sheer blouses - weightless, movable, but very fashion-forward and interesting. I think people are expecting Slimane to re-introduce the grandeur of Yves Saint Laurent - but this can't be done. YSL will always be at the helm of what it means to be a YSL Woman - Slimane is re-introducing, re-interpreting, and re-imagining YSL. It has to be Yves Saint Laurent to Slimane, not Slimane for Yves Sain Laurent; in reality, that's the only way he will return YSL, now Saint Laurent, to it's former glory.

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YSL Major Re-Branding and Name Change!

Iconic Fashion House, Yves Saint Laurent, has just undergone an enormous change under the reigns of it's new Creative Director, Hedi Slimane! Just months after acquiring total creative control over enigmatic brand, Slimane has reportedly opted to make history and officially change the name Yves Saint Laurent to Saint Laurent Paris!

The name change came as a shock to the fashion world, as it not only affects the brand's identity as a Fashion House, but also the historical significance of the name itself. Founded in 1962 by Pierre Bergé and legendary designer Yves Saint Laurent (after his emancipation from the House of Dior) Yves Saint Laurent, as a brand, quickly became one of the most luxurious and sought after Design Houses on the planet. Forever changing the aesthetic of the chic woman, Yves Saint Laurent helped usher fashion into a new age; taking Haute Couture to the streets, and creating the first Prét-à-Porter line in the world. Yves Saint Laurent was a name the evoked more than the designer himself; it evoked freedom, power, and absolute finesse; and represents one of the three major shifts in fashion history spear-headed by brilliant designers the likes of Coco Chanel and Alexander McQueen. The name YSL, as well as the logo, have been ingrained in fashion history as synonymous with ultimate luxury and style ever since.

Anyone who knows anything about me knows that I absolutely worship Yves Saint Laurent! He was one of the most incredible, fearless designers that has ever graced the world's runways with his work. Almost everything we see in modern women's wear today, in some form, can be traced back to some of his original ideas, visions, and silhouettes (as well as Chanel, I should say in fairness). He created ultimate classic, and it's because of him the Fashion House itself became the epitome of style that it did; holding quite prominently the position, up until the moment Yves himself decided to close the Couture House officially in 2002, just 6 years before his passing.

This re-branding effort has come in an attempt to return YSL to it's former prominence as one of the leading luxury Houses in the world. It is, according to Slimane, a new, modern take on the brand's public identity. As someone who adores everything YSL has represented, this is almost sacrilegious for me to hear! The logo itself is fashion history, and the very idea of not seeing the name of that incredible designer grace those designs as they should is almost cringe-worthy! What would Yves say?! I don't know if I can love it, but I don't know if I can knock it either! This may very well be the next, prominent age of YSL. What do you think?

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P.S. I should mention that this also means that new Collections from Saint Laurent Paris will NOT include the original formatting of the iconic YSL name! Yes, that's right! If you can get your hands on a YSL logo print, design, or piece that includes his original name you SIMPLY MUST. It's officially fashion history from this point on people, get yourself a piece of it before it's gone forever! I know I will!

Yves Saint Laurent for the Fall 2012 Season

Yves Saint Laurent's Fall/Winter 2012 Runway collection is the last Stefano Pilati will ever produce under the house. Saturated with bold, highly structural shapes in true YSL glory; Pilati presented his farewell show with black, oily leather, chain mail gowns, and exaggerated, shapely shoulders (both rounded and squared) to his powerful pantsuits and jackets. Adding an almost militant feel to the collection, Pilati's shapes are harsh, cold, and impeccably constructed in mostly leather. The clean lines and sharp features are a celebration, and dare I say, exaggeration of the timeless Yves Saint Laurent woman. At the forefront of the fashion house since 2004, Pilati's contribution to the YSL line will not be forgotten, nor can it be necessarily replaced, respectively. I am excited to see who will take place of Pilati as the head of the house of Yves Saint Laurent, although, in all honestly, I wish it was me!

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