Monday, 25 March 2013

Monochromatic Fantasy at One King West / Lucian Matis Fall 2013


We were enamoured from the moment we walked through the entrance. The opulence of one of Toronto's most iconic buildings, One King West, evoked a grandeur and a prestige only a Collection by Lucian Matis could rightfully equal. Huge columns arched by massive bay windows and stunning gold crown moulding throughout. I'm sure you all remember Matis' majestic and jaw-dropping Collection during Fashion Week last year at the Fairmont Royal York; we thought it was the best of the year. This year, one of Toronto's most celebrated Designers took us in an entirely new direction.


A private showing to an invite-only crowd (thanks for inviting me Lucian!), Monochromatic Fantasy took place in the Grand Ballroom of One King to a packed house of industry professionals, celebrities, designer guests, and media. We were treated to hors d'oeuvres, Bailey's cocktails, and delicious treats pre-show. Once runway began, in an unexpected twist, Matis presented an exclusive Bailey's creation gown to start the show as almost, I can only imagine, a nod to the prestige of his last showing. Featuring the same, repeated aesthetic of incredibly detailed, hand-cut patterns and a brilliant gown; this starting dress was a glimpse of nostalgia; and it, like it was in the past, was quite epic. 





Monochromatic Fantasy was everything the name suggested; a stark, clean palette presented with an air of regal majesty. Huge gowns in the crispest, angel white were dramatic and powerful in shape but simple in essence. Minimalist forms and minimalist colours evoked an aesthetic that was a total departure form the over-detailed, over-worked, and over-shiny that we are often accustomed to with a man of Matis' talent. Instead we are treated with something a little unexpected but equally great; it almost acts like the energy of the Collection as opposed to the grandeur of the material or the aesthetic itself. The clothes acted like images, and the Collection, like all Fashion Shows, existed perfectly in that moment. The white was flowing and bright, the cool greys were sharp and architectural, and the blacks were rich and chic. Dotted with textural elements of over-sized fur and the occasional matte leather, Monochromatic Fantasy was a nod to the greatness of true simplicity; something that it is uniquely difficult to do. Something like this requires the best trained hand and perhaps an even greater eye; without the option of bedazzlement or intersecting lines to create balance - the balance, the harmony of the form, becomes entirely dependent on the form itself. No line can be sewn out of place and no shoulder can be shaped differently; it calls for absolute control and absolute grace in execution. That is true craftsmanship, and simplicity of this caliber can be achieved be no one less than a masterful technician.







All incredible images Copyright 2013 to Michael Ho (Michael Ho Photography)

A brilliant, bright, powerfully soft presentation. Thank you again Lucian.

D

Sunday, 24 March 2013

Day 3 at World MasterCard Fashion Week / KORHANI Home

Magic is the best word to describe KORHANI's exhibition at this year's World MasterCard Fashion Week.  Easily one of the most anticipated Collections of the Season, KORHANI is a favourite because of their unique and whimsical use of their Home Collection fabric - that is, carpets! Yes, that's right, KORHANI is so brilliant that they create brilliant outfits out of their brilliant carpets. It's that simple - creativity + function = style, and KORHANI is at the helm of quality style.





Creating a journey through 4 different energies, moods, and aesthetics, and perhaps even eras; KORHANI this let us travel with them from the dark, gothica depths of fantastic, glittering violets rugs, dotted with raven embellishments, Frankenstein hair, and witchery; to the revolution of Pop Art in blocked, 60's forms and unique, portraiture motifs! Yes, this was a fun show, a true performance! We absolutely loved the graphical elements of KORHANI's new Collection of carpets - from the orthogonals and shapes of the Art-Deco era to the Neoteric glam of a 60's Tokyo. It was a Collection full of adventure and visual brilliance; and it's amazing to see it come from a brand that specializes in Home Decor. True creativity at its best, with the most fantastic Designers behind it - KORHANI delivered one of the most magical shows of Fashion Week as a whole. It was charming, innovative, completely new, and wonderful to watch. I, for one, dream of having a KORHANI carpet in my apartment one day; I must! Nobody does it better! Congratulations KORHANI.







All fantastic images Copyright 2013 ZoomerMedia Limited

▲D

Thursday, 21 March 2013

Day 2 at World MasterCard Fashion Week / LINE Knitwear

Day 2 at World MasterCard Fashion Week featured Line Knitwear as it's second-last showing, behind the incomparable Sid Neigum to close the night. A fantastic presentation of long sweaters, over-sized knitted forms, and fantastic gold elements; Line was masterfully composed. One of our favourites of the entire day; Line was unique in the sense that it presented a Collection that was simultaneously wearable, marketable, modern, consistently on-point in terms of trend; yet remained interesting and new. Hugely draped forms were accented with eye-catching textures of leather and metallic while sharper cut pieces were grounded with cinched waists, laser-cut skirts, and fantastic ankle boots.





We especially loved the leather skirt details. Such a simple shape and form; yet the glossy black, flowing material makes it seem that much richer, that much more expensive, and chicer as a result. It turns up the knitwear as a whole, which is the foundation of Line, and takes from casual to refined. Sweaters were worn almost like trench coats, with a refinement and poise, taking the aesthetic of Line as a whole to a much more prestigious, rich level. A fantastic presentation full of diverse shapes, awesome forms, but finished with a sharp and beautiful simplicity - I'd love to own any one of these great pieces!






All credit to the amazing photos goes to Jenna Marie Wakani and Fashion Magazine

D

Wednesday, 20 March 2013

Day 2 at World MasterCard Fashion Week / Mercedes-Benz Start Up: DUY

I couldn't wait to review this Collection and you're about to see why. DUY, a Montréal-raised and trained powerhouse Design-phenom, presented his Winter 2013 Collection last night at World MasterCard Fashion Week to significant praise! We were in absolute awe - at least I was - to the majesty, structure, power, and brilliance of this Collection. Victorian in essence and energy, DUY's Winter 2013 showcase was presented with an unyielding grandeur. Opulent forms in exaggerated, dramatic shapes slowly glided down the runway in Slate Greys, glittering Blacks, crisp Whites, and Olive leathers. Accented with bold, textural knits and hints of brilliant Silver, the entire Collection looked extremely expensive and impeccably constructed - from the laser-cut lines on some of those incredible cropped jackets to the floral motifs seemingly cut-out by hand. Jarring to see, in a beautiful way, and a stand-out presentation from the entire week.





There are very few Designers that I see present a Collection of this type of visual magnitude. Not to say that so many of the other Designers showing this week aren't as equally incredibly talented; but to say that it is definitely rare to see such a showstopper. It wouldn't surprise me if DUY's presentation launched a following here at a Fashion Week; something to be highly anticipated each and every Season should the iconic Designer choose to continue showing in Toronto. The forms, the gowns, the brilliant shapes, and the ultra-rich fabrics are a testament to a super-luxury that I am desperate to see more out of Canada. It's a beauty that is eternally significant, and designs like these won't be forgotten easily. Congratulations DUY!









All Credit to these amazing photos go to Jesse Milns and BlogTo

D

Tuesday, 19 March 2013

Day 1 at World MasterCard Fashion Week / Pink Tartan

Pink Tartan presented their Fall 2013 showcase last night at opening night of World MasterCard Fashion Week right here in Toronto. Presented at almost overflowing capacity, Pink Tartan showcased beautiful florals, 50's-60's era dresses and elements, and brilliantly coloured fur.





Pink Tartan is often praised for their beautiful femininity and classic shapes - this Season the Designer took that even further by adding totally Seasonal retro elements throughout. If it wasn't that 60's-era hair it was that 50's cut dress. Beautifully lined with a modern edge in touches of glossy leather, black leather, and bright power-pigments like Candy Pink, Superman Blue, and that beautiful Olive Green we've been seeing so much of recently; Pink Tartan's aesthetic was classically feminine for the Autumn Season. And, much like Bustle, it was refreshing to see Pink Tartan play with pigments that go beyond the seriousness of Fall Fashion - the bright tones are more reminiscent of what we adopt for Spring; which makes it that much more engaging, that much more bold, for Autumn. A nice touch.





The fur was epic, to say the least. Pink Tartan is known for using fur quite often, but not as often as they did last night. Bright jackets in Deep Browns, Bright Blue's, and Calico Golds dominated the Runway. We especially adored the White fur dotted and striped with beautiful Black lines - it was easily the stand-out piece of the entire Collection. Golds, Silvers, and Greys were a tour-de-force amidst the brightness, and the Chanel-cut tweeds were professional, sharp, and classically 50's. Very nice!






All Credit for the amazing photos go to George Pimentel

D

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